Leather Watchstrap

March 21, 2012
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I read an article recently about the demise of watches. Seems most folks these days don’t wear them, in favor of constantly pulling their phone out of their pockets. Sure, it’s one less accessory to deal with, but I can’t imagine going a day without a watch on my wrist.

So, as a great excuse to buy a new watch, I figured I should do a little DIY to make your own leather strap. Timex has released the Weekender model and it’s a simple, classic, timeless look with easily changed pass-through straps. They are really inexpensive and accessible too, but if you’re not wanting to look like everyone else, why not personalize it?

I’ve written up some details for the project, and you can check out the full instructions at Design*Sponge.

This little project is really easy. You’ll use the strap that comes with the watch as a guide, so you can fully cut and punch all the holes in your new strap to match by looking at the original.

This one is keeping the same pass-through look, but also check back for Watchstrap #2 – I’m going to make a traditional two-piece strap for my girlfriend’s watch (yes, we’re gonna be semi-matchy) and I’ll post instructions and a cutting template for you.

 

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Leather Lunch Tote

February 22, 2012
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I don’t bring my lunch to work as often as I should. And by that, I mean never. What if I had a cool lunch tote? It might not help… but at the very least, it’s a fun project to practice some hand-sewing and to make something interesting.

Lately I’ve been inspired by a number of Japanese leather craft books… such meticulous stitching and thoughtful design. After seeing an interesting small tote in one, I knew I had to try my hand at my own design. I wanted to make it out of one piece of leather, and you can make this that way, but a large cross isn’t an efficient way to chop up your hide – hence me cutting the flaps separate. I had a really amazing hide to work with and just couldn’t waste any.

Whether you need a lunch tote or not, here’s a project that you can modify to make something neat for your own totable needs. The full tutorial is at Design*Sponge here. Check it out, download this pattern, and get to making something.

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The New Camp Stool

November 14, 2011
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Since introducing the DIY campstool a while back, I had thought about making a nicer version for the store. Not long ago, as I was working on this prototype, I was asked if I would contribute the stool to the soon to be released new volume of Tools – Real Stuff for Future Classics. It’s a book that has every cool gadget, artifact, clothing item and tool you’d ever want and I was beyond flattered to be included. It’s made by HUGE magazine in Japan and I just happened to have a gracious reader (thanks Ken!) that passed my site on to the editor.

I’ve been waiting to launch the sale of the new stool until I had some inventory, but I can’t wait any longer since I’ve heard the new issue of Tools has already been printed! I haven’t seen it yet, but thanks to Takuhito, the new release is on it’s way to me. My first stool is still in Japan (since being photographed for the book) and will even be shown during the new volume’s release party. Another amazing honor.

I’m finishing up on the retail stools now and they should be for sale soon. I have a small batch going to Need Supply, a small batch in my store, and more going to a special client. They will be extremely limited to start, but I’m already ordering more materials for a large run.

They will be made with USA grown hardwood Ash, turned to a slight taper. The seat is English bridle leather from Wickett & Craig, with doubled attach points sewn in. A matching carry strap will be included. Price will be $129.

 

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Wool Camera Wrap

October 26, 2011
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You’ll need some tools:
  • sewing machine
  • scissors or rotary knife
  • pencil
  • paper
You’ll need a few materials:
  • heavy wool fabric
  • strap material — leather or canvas

One thing I’m typically seen lugging around is a camera. Most camera bags are overkill, especially when you just want a bit of protection walking around, or you’re packing a camera in another bag for a short trip. I picked up a nice looking, heavy wool remnant from the Pendleton outlet last weekend, so I figured I could try my hand at a simple camera wrap. Now I’ve got just the right amount of walk-around camera protection without the “tourist look.”

Making a structured camera with soft fabric is kinda crazy unless you use a stiff liner, so I was aiming for more of a protective wrap. This way, you can relax about making things exact and just enjoy sewing what is essentially a pocket with a flap. You have options for an enclosure; just make sure it doesn’t involve any metal that would mar your camera. I went with a simple strap closure that ties into itself.

1. Start with the pencil and paper and loosely trace the dimensions of your camera. If it’s small and square, easy! If it’s got an external lens, you’ll have more facets to your pattern. I traced the bottom of mine for the lens profile and used that pattern for the bottom and top but added extra for the flap. I traced the back for height and then just measured what a front panel would be and cut a long rectangle to fit.

2. Add about 1/4″ to your traced pieces to compensate for sewing the panels together and to add some wiggle room for you camera. Cut your paper template pieces out and then use them to cut your fabric panels. *Note: If your lens is off-centered, be sure to flip your bottom template over to cut the top panel of fabric.

3. After the fabric was cut, I carefully sewed all pieces together inside out. Sew any raw edges over to prevent fraying. Remember to leave openings for your strap, too. Once all panels are sewn together to your liking, turn the pocket outside in and test with your camera. Since I was using some loosely drawn templates, I did have to tighten the fit with another line of stitching on one edge.

4. For a closure, I’d envisioned using a piece of leather to wrap around the camera and tie into itself. Measure a strap piece long enough to wrap around your camera a couple times and tie to itself. Since I didn’t flip my pattern for the top and bottom flaps (see the *note above), I had a bulge in my bottom panel. Rather than re-sewing another wrap, I found this to be the perfect attachment point for the strap. You could sew your strap on the back, or just find a messed up piece on your design like I did and rivet it in place. If you do use a rivet or another hardware attachment, make sure the rivet cannot touch your camera. Since my rivet uses the outer fabric goof, I was safe.

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Red Wing Iron Ranger

September 30, 2011
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I seem to have a lot of collections. Tools. Chairs. Cameras. Boots. I seem to covet these things as art objects, but art that I can definitely use. I’ve owned objects that were too nice to use, one being a vintage Eames LCM that was just so perfect and all I could do was worry about marring the flawless beauty with a jean rivet, so I had to sell it. It was gorgeous, but I just couldn’t keep it if I wasn’t going to use it.

So here we come to my pair of Iron Rangers. Damn, if they aren’t good looking, but also up to some serious use. The harness leather is soft yet hard wearing – great material from their own tannery, S.B. Foot Tanning Company in Minnesota. I’ve had them for a couple months now and they’ve been comfortable from day one, and only expect them to get better. The cork sole is a nice change from a loud leather sole and will be perfect for the wet Portland seasons that are near. I’m curious how it will wear, as I seem to have a pronounced heel-strike, but regardless – the Goodyear welted construction will make resoling possible for the life of the boot. Amazing construction details like the triple stitching and the cap toe make this one of the best looking boots made. Fall is coming up and if you’re in need of a solid boot, I recommend you take a look at Red Wing’s offerings.

Thanks to Lisa Warninger for the photos and a tremendous thanks to Dan at Red Wing Heritage for the best gift possible for a boot collector like myself.

 

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Hand Sewn Passport Cover

August 24, 2011
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You’ll need some tools:
  • knife
  • cutting mat
  • metal ruler
  • stitch spacer (overstitch wheel)
  • leather awl
  • two leather needles
You’ll need a few materials:
  • leather
  • waxed thread
  • contact cement
  • beeswax

Have passport, will travel… yes. Have passport in a hand-sewn leather case? JET SETTER. Here’s a little project done for Design*Sponge’s travel theme – a lesson in leather hand sewing that we can use for a passport cover, or just about any small case-like thing you can think of. Hand sewing leather is easy, but a few key steps will make it even easier. Sadly, it doesn’t make it much faster… get ready to earn this case with a couple hours of work. You’ll need a small amount of leather and a few inexpensive tools.

You’ll need enough leather for the main cover and two interior flaps. Cut your cover to 7 5/8 wide and 5 1/2 inches tall. Each interior flap is 5 1/2 tall and 2 1/2 inches wide. Position your pieces together, mark where the flaps will reside, then lay pieces separate and apply contact cement to the outer edges. Leave cement to dry completely, then press the pieces together to adhere. Having your pieces properly secured will make stitching so much easier.

Take the entire assembly and place flaps down on the table. place your ruler 1/8 in from each edge and run your stitch spacing tool along the edge. This will mark the leather in a uniform pattern, indicating where each stitch will be placed. Apply plenty of pressure to get a good mark.

After all edges are marked, press through each with the awl. I usually punch into another piece of heavy leather, so the awl makes a deep mark for passing the needles though.

Once your case has all the holes pressed, you can thread your needles and begin sewing. To thread a needle, put thread though the eye as normal, then bring it to the point and poke through the thick of the thread. Pull the end down the needle, over the eye completely, then slightly tug the long end of thread to secure. With normal sewing this should be secure. For more security, you can wax the threads together with some more beeswax. After both ends of a long piece have been threaded with needles, you can begin hand sewing by pulling the thread to its half-way point into the cover.

Stitching should be completed in a crossing motion through the leather – each needle passing through the same hole, being careful not to stitch though the thread. As you work your way around the piece, pull the stitches tight to keep a clean appearance. Stitching on a lacing pony or a vice is the best way, but buying one might be more of a commitment for just one project. If you’re going to be hand sewing more leather projects, a lacing pony is a must. Also, for a comprehensive lesson on hand sewing, check out “The Art of Hand Sewing” by Al Stohlman. It’s a bible for this type of project.

Hand sewing is a long process, but take your time as you do it, relax, make sure your stitches are clean and tight and the finished project is definitely worth it. Once you’ve completely made it through all edges, you should back-stitch 3 holes to secure your thread, then carefully cut the ends free. After the sewing is done, you can flatten the stitches with the overstitch wheel. This will press your thread into the leather and clean up the appearance of your stitches. Finally, you can round the edges with a knife or some scissors, wax the edges and burnish with your finger, then grab that passport and book your trip.

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The F/M x W&F D-Ring

August 5, 2011
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I’ve been recently talking with Darian Hocking of Free/Man, for which I’d been a fan of his blog since its start. I was excited because we had been discussing of some type of collaboration… but we hadn’t finalized anything yet. Then he asked if I’d ever made a ring belt before. I had not, and up to that point, I really only thought I needed one belt. I have a pretty simple day-to-day uniform and I’d been wearing my project belt everyday for over six months – figuring I’d probably just wear that until it broke. Though after our talk, I got excited to try something new and I headed directly to the tack supply store to get some rings. I came home with some standard rings and a pair of d-rings. The d-rings worked much better, since they would lay flatter with heavier leather and put less stress on the buckle end. Once I made myself a prototype, I was instantly sold on the design.

The belts are made from North American steer hides tanned in the English bridle fashion with solid brass or nickel plated brass rings. Edges are beveled and finished with beeswax on the tan and dye and wax on the darker colors. The English bridle leather is extremely durable, yet very flexible – perfectly suited a belt. The waxes and oils used in the tanning process lock securely to the d-ring setup and will look more and more amazing as the belt ages. Each is stamped with our collaborative logo, on the underside of the buckled billet end.

From Darian: I met Matt Pierce of Wood&Faulk earlier this year through a mutual friend. Before I met him, I had greatly admired his craft, which is chock full of do-it-yourself projects around the house.

I had been searching for a dual brass ring belt, but had not yet found one that made sense for me. Matt and I have similar personalities and get along well, we both wanted to make a special product together and at a respectable price point for our customers + readers. After a bunch of conversations, we ended up going with these one inch and one and a half inch english bridle leather belts, with solid brass D-rings versus a traditional buckle. There’s something so simple about dual ring belts. They are a classic design, and have been around for a long time.

Tan/Brass belts launch today in the W&F store with brown and nickel hardware options launching in a few days. Supply for Free/Man will be in stock by Friday, August 12th.

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The Project Belt Revisited

July 29, 2011
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It seems like forever since the belt experiment took place, but I realized it’s barely been six months. However, some of you have seen some good wear out of them, so I figured as post was in order. It’s been great hearing from wearers, and I’ve enjoyed seeing the varied abuse.

Since that first project, I’ve learned a lot and refined my belt-making process. One defining improvement has been to slick the edges with beeswax on the new belts. For the initial project belts, they were left untouched to accentuate the break-in, but I think I definitely prefer a smoother, slicked edge. I’d just recently slicked mine, and I know Garrett did that to his.

If you guys want to clean up your own rough edges, it takes just a little beeswax rubbed in there and then you can use a slicker tool, or just a small piece of heavy canvas to vigorously rub that wax into the edge. As you rub, the wax will smooth the edges nicely. If they are really frayed, you can slick with lightly dampened water first and after drying completely – go after it with the beeswax.

Another announcement about the belt line is that it will definitely be growing. I’ll be introducing a more finished version in English bridle leather with a new buckle, and also a special announcement on Monday (Sorry folks, looks like Friday now) for a new model that I’ve recently collaborated with Darian from FREE/MAN. It’ll be available though my store or the new FREE/MAN online store (especially good for our Canadian customers to save on shipping).

Special thanks to those of you that have shared your pics – Anabela, Geoff, Evan, Garrett, Megan C, Megan R and Stacey. Also, anyone else is welcome to show off their own wear-in pics on either the Wood&Faulk flickr group or facebook page.

 

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Folding Tripod Camp Stool

June 15, 2011
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You’ll need some tools:
  • Sander
  • Center-finder (optional, but helps)
  • Drill
  • Screwdriver
  • Small socket wrench to fit acorn nuts
  • Rags
  • Knife
You’ll need a few materials:
  • Three 1 1/8” Birch hardwood dowels - enough for three 24” pieces
  • One brass 2.75” bolt
  • One 1.5” eyehole bolt
  • Two brass acorn nuts
  • Three brass washers
  • Three brass finishing washers
  • Three brass 1” wood screws (big enough not to slip through the finishing washer)
  • Finish - I used Osmo PolyX-Oil
  • Leather or other heavy material for seat

In honor of this month’s Design*Sponge theme of the outdoors, how about we build an old-fashioned camping stool? First of all, have you seen modern folding tripod stools? They are ugly as sin and your grandpa would be ASHAMED if you bought one. With the help of some hefty dowels, a little hardware and a piece of leather or heavy canvas – you’ll be sitting by the campfire in style. Also, the materials will only set you back about $25.

In addition, I’ve got to give proper respect to the super creative Kate Pruitt at Design*Sponge for sparking this idea… It’s great to work with her and the D*S crew.

Instructions:

1. Start by cutting your dowels to 24” or closest to that. I bought two 48” dowels, so each leg is about 23 7/8 after the saw blade’s share. Drill a hole completely through each one, 10.5” from the top of each leg. Find the center of each leg’s top, and drill a small pilot hole for your seat mounting screws. You’ll need this pilot hole to prevent your legs from splitting. Sand each of the legs smooth, and a little around the edge of the tops, and a good amount on each bottom to round it out more. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just make sure you don’t shorten any leg with too much rounding.

2. After the legs are cut, drilled and sanded, apply your choice of finish and set aside to dry. As they are drying, you can work on the seat material. I’m including a downloadable template for you to create your seat with. I chose leather because I have plenty of it around, but you could sew up a heavy canvas seat or any number of materials. Make sure it’s heavy and sufficiently reinforced since there will be a good amount of stress on each corner.

On one corner of the seat, I left a tab for the carry strap, but this is optional. Mine’s attached to a closure strap, which I recommend having regardless of a carry strap. It’ll keep your stool from popping open in storage or carrying. I edged my leather pieces and treated the smooth surfaces with carnauba wax.

3. Once the legs are dry, assemble the structure assembly by threading two of the legs together with the bolt, with the eyehole bolt in the middle. Use washers on both ends, and attach the acorn nut. I actually cut my bolt down a little bit with a hacksaw, so it fit close. You’ll need a little play in the assembly to move, but it shouldn’t be gaping. Once those two legs are secure, feed the eyehole bolt (which I cut down a little too) into the third leg and attach with a washer and acorn nut. Tighten both acorns securely with a socket wrench.

4. After the base is complete, attach your seat to each leg using a large finishing washer and the wood screw. Don’t over-tighten and strip out your holes, for you’ll need all the strength on these mounting points. After everything is secure, you can take a seat. The main bolt might bend a little to the stress, but that’s fine, it keep its bend permanently and that shape will aid in the folding-up state. Now you’re ready for your next campfire sitting in distinguished comfort.

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Northwesterner Series

May 31, 2011
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Back when I started Wood&Faulk, its only real purpose was to ever be a blog. I wanted to share some house projects, furniture finds, and some general experiments. I added a store just to make a little scratch to pay for hosting and materials for projects for posts – but things are kind-of evolving already. I’m still keeping the blog format as you know it, and the current style of content won’t change. I’ll always want to share interesting projects and experiments like I’ve always done. The one thing that will be evolving is the store. As the books, notepads and miscellany sell off, they won’t be replaced and I’ll be converting the store content to more hardgoods and the like. I’m excited to have new bags in there, and will be putting belts and camera straps in the store this week as well. Hopefully this won’t affect anyone much, for the little bits never seemed to sell that fast anyway.

To start the store transition, I’m happy to release a new series of bags that I’m really excited about – the Northwesterner Series. Made with Martexin Original Waxed water-repellant canvas and fine leathers – they are sturdy as ever, and sure to last long enough for even the next generation to enjoy. I was inspired by the colors and the climate of the Pacific Northwest, but I feel the classic styling is perfect to fit any situation. Available in 16” sizes now, and in the larger 20” coming soon. All of them come with matching straps. Many thanks to Lisa Warninger for the brilliant-as-always photography.

Also, thank you to everyone who’s been such a loyal reader and customer so far. I’m amazed everyday to hear from old and new readers. It’s been a busy time for me lately, and I know the frequency of posts has dipped – just know that I miss creating and sharing things with you guys when I’m tied up. You are all such patient and kind friends!

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