So, as a great excuse to buy a new watch, I figured I should do a little DIY to make your own leather strap. Timex has released the Weekender model and it’s a simple, classic, timeless look with easily changed pass-through straps. They are really inexpensive and accessible too, but if you’re not wanting to look like everyone else, why not personalize it?

I’ve written up some details for the project, and you can check out the full instructions at Design*Sponge.

This little project is really easy. You’ll use the strap that comes with the watch as a guide, so you can fully cut and punch all the holes in your new strap to match by looking at the original.

This one is keeping the same pass-through look, but also check back for Watchstrap #2 – I’m going to make a traditional two-piece strap for my girlfriend’s watch (yes, we’re gonna be semi-matchy) and I’ll post instructions and a cutting template for you.

Lately I’ve been inspired by a number of Japanese leather craft books… such meticulous stitching and thoughtful design. After seeing an interesting small tote in one, I knew I had to try my hand at my own design. I wanted to make it out of one piece of leather, and you can make this that way, but a large cross isn’t an efficient way to chop up your hide – hence me cutting the flaps separate. I had a really amazing hide to work with and just couldn’t waste any.

Whether you need a lunch tote or not, here’s a project that you can modify to make something neat for your own totable needs. The full tutorial is at Design*Sponge here. Check it out, download this pattern, and get to making something.

A couple conversations with friends had me thinking lately. The first was a post my friend Ben wrote about pocket knives. After chatting with Ben, I was on the lookout for a nice knife – since the last meaningful knife I’d carried was a tiny Swiss Army that my brother and I got as matching Christmas gifts as kids. The second conversation was with Robert about traditions among fathers and sons, and it steered me to think about the traditions of my youth, and those matching knives my brother and I once had.

I’d previously picked up a Case Copperlock and really loved it. Top quality, beautiful finish, and really slim. One blade makes it amazingly simple, and just what I was looking for. Once I looked around more at other Case knives, I found a small series that commemorated the Case Brothers who started that little knife company back in 1900. This was the perfect excuse to pick up one for my brother and me to carry as matching knife buddies again.

After finally tracking down a couple and receiving them (they were a limited series from 2010), I now have one in my pocket, and the other is currently en route to my brother.

One crate can be made from a 2′x4′ piece of plywood, typically called a project board. If you have the room and the need, you could get 4 crates from a 4′x8′, but boards that big don’t typically fit in hatchbacks. I used 7/16” plywood, some small trim screws, wood glue, crate hardware and paint for this project.

Because thin plywood isn’t good for making sturdy boxes unless you have fancy joints, we’re going to have to use a table saw to cut some channels with a dado. If you don’t have a dado blade, or just lost your dado throat plate in a recent move, you can cut these with a single blade and just move your fence to cover the channel with a few passes. Because I am using 7/16” ply, you’ll need to make your dados 7/16” in from the end and of course 7/16” wide. Dados are indicated on the cut sheet diagram. Information on cutting a dado is here.

1. Cut all pieces according to the cut list with the table saw. You’ll need one with at least a 15inch fence. After pieces are cut, you’ll need to cut dados as specified. They’re all the same, so save time by cutting in an assembly-line fashion.

2. Next, you’ll need to cut clearance out of the front panel to install the hardware pull. Depending on the type you use, you’ll need a different cut, so I won’t detail it here. You could put handles on the sides, create a lid, make them taller and stacking… any option you might want for your particular use.

3. When all pieces are ready, you can start the glue-up. Clamps are necessary to get a solid joint, and I’ve added some small screws for added heft. Use wood glue spread with your finger on both boards to properly assemble and use a damp cloth to clean up any glue that’s squeezed out during the clamping. Let sit for the recommended amount of dry time. Once the main panels are assembled, you can add the side rails, and the triangle pieces to the underside. Triangle pieces ensure that you get a solid structure and a good area to mount the corner hardware pieces.

4. Final step is to sand to your preference and paint. Since I was going for a rough surplus look, I sanded all sharp edges soft and left some mars and chips in the wood. You can make it soft and smooth as you want, but for my purposes, I spend almost no time sanding. Some flat latex paint brushed on, and I’m done.

One of the most gracious endeavors was also one of the more stressful… Making some passport covers for Red Wing Amsterdam to be given to their agents for a Christmas gift.

It was a tight deadline and I was working with their own leather from SB Foot Tannery, which I’d never played with before. The first run had to be simple in construction to get them done in time, and yet I’m making them for someone who’s been making leather boots for over a century. No pressure, right? The self-heaped on stress was quite high. Though throughout the project, I learned a lot and got very familiar with their own leathers and have great plans to make a more intricate version in the future. I guess sometimes the stress in the journey is the reward too.

They’ve been producing White Dog, which is one of their limited releases. If you aren’t familiar with White Dog, it’s a new whiskey straight from the still. Colorless and plenty strong, this is whiskey that’s never touched a barrel. Typically whiskey will be aged in charred oak, all the while darkening in color and mellowing from the process. The aging process can be used to mask imperfections in lesser whiskeys, but with new whiskey like this – there’s nothing to hide behind. The level of craft at House Spirits makes for an amazing and wonderfully drinkable spirit.

Made from 100% malted barley, you can really breathe in the distinctive malt flavor when sipping. A bit of sweetness, and a light spiciness make it easy to drink neat, but with enough heat to really shine though in a cocktail.

Evan Kinkel from House Spirits even suggested a couple cocktails perfect for the occasion:

The White Zombie

• 1 1/2 oz. White dog
• 3/4 oz. Fresh pressed lime juice
• 1/2 oz. Simple syrup
• 1/2 oz. B.G. Reynold’s Don’s Mix
• Dash of Angustura bitters
• Garnish with mint &lime

Silver Sunrise

• 1 1/2 oz. White Dog
• 1 oz. Stumptown cold brew
• 1/2 oz. Molasses syrup
• 3/4 oz. half & half
• Dash of Reagan’s bitters
• Garnish with an orange disc & cinnamon

If you try some, let me know what you think. If you’d rather stick to your favorite aged whiskey, I’ve got a DIY coming up for you… I’m gonna try to micro-age some White Dog. I’ll post in a few weeks and let you know how it turns out and show you the simple process.

I’ve been waiting to launch the sale of the new stool until I had some inventory, but I can’t wait any longer since I’ve heard the new issue of Tools has already been printed! I haven’t seen it yet, but thanks to Takuhito, the new release is on it’s way to me. My first stool is still in Japan (since being photographed for the book) and will even be shown during the new volume’s release party. Another amazing honor.

I’m finishing up on the retail stools now and they should be for sale soon. I have a small batch going to Need Supply, a small batch in my store, and more going to a special client. They will be extremely limited to start, but I’m already ordering more materials for a large run.

They will be made with USA grown hardwood Ash, turned to a slight taper. The seat is English bridle leather from Wickett & Craig, with doubled attach points sewn in. A matching carry strap will be included. Price will be $129.

Making a structured camera with soft fabric is kinda crazy unless you use a stiff liner, so I was aiming for more of a protective wrap. This way, you can relax about making things exact and just enjoy sewing what is essentially a pocket with a flap. You have options for an enclosure; just make sure it doesn’t involve any metal that would mar your camera. I went with a simple strap closure that ties into itself.

1. Start with the pencil and paper and loosely trace the dimensions of your camera. If it’s small and square, easy! If it’s got an external lens, you’ll have more facets to your pattern. I traced the bottom of mine for the lens profile and used that pattern for the bottom and top but added extra for the flap. I traced the back for height and then just measured what a front panel would be and cut a long rectangle to fit.

2. Add about 1/4″ to your traced pieces to compensate for sewing the panels together and to add some wiggle room for you camera. Cut your paper template pieces out and then use them to cut your fabric panels. *Note: If your lens is off-centered, be sure to flip your bottom template over to cut the top panel of fabric.

3. After the fabric was cut, I carefully sewed all pieces together inside out. Sew any raw edges over to prevent fraying. Remember to leave openings for your strap, too. Once all panels are sewn together to your liking, turn the pocket outside in and test with your camera. Since I was using some loosely drawn templates, I did have to tighten the fit with another line of stitching on one edge.

4. For a closure, I’d envisioned using a piece of leather to wrap around the camera and tie into itself. Measure a strap piece long enough to wrap around your camera a couple times and tie to itself. Since I didn’t flip my pattern for the top and bottom flaps (see the *note above), I had a bulge in my bottom panel. Rather than re-sewing another wrap, I found this to be the perfect attachment point for the strap. You could sew your strap on the back, or just find a messed up piece on your design like I did and rivet it in place. If you do use a rivet or another hardware attachment, make sure the rivet cannot touch your camera. Since my rivet uses the outer fabric goof, I was safe.

So here we come to my pair of Iron Rangers. Damn, if they aren’t good looking, but also up to some serious use. The harness leather is soft yet hard wearing – great material from their own tannery, S.B. Foot Tanning Company in Minnesota. I’ve had them for a couple months now and they’ve been comfortable from day one, and only expect them to get better. The cork sole is a nice change from a loud leather sole and will be perfect for the wet Portland seasons that are near. I’m curious how it will wear, as I seem to have a pronounced heel-strike, but regardless – the Goodyear welted construction will make resoling possible for the life of the boot. Amazing construction details like the triple stitching and the cap toe make this one of the best looking boots made. Fall is coming up and if you’re in need of a solid boot, I recommend you take a look at Red Wing’s offerings.

Thanks to Lisa Warninger for the photos and a tremendous thanks to Dan at Red Wing Heritage for the best gift possible for a boot collector like myself.

So, you may not want to let go of your backpack already, but regardless – there’s some fun construction opportunities to tinker with here. I’m just showing one simple direction, so you have plenty of opportunities to experiment on your own. More pencil holders? A cross strap? A clip to attach a six-pack? Go for it!

Material-wise, my inclination is to use some leather and a scrap of Army blanket. I have lots of this stuff. You could use denim and an old belt. Felt and some nylon webbing? Lots of possibilities.

First thing, cut your wool blanket material in the shape of a T. The top is 5 inches wide and 3 inches tall. The overall height is about 12 inches. This length gives you a long flap to protect your book from the buckle area. Cut your leather to a strap of 1.5 inches wide and at least 48 inches long. You can make it longer or shorter to your preference, and longer if you want a looped handle.

Take both material pieces and lay them out together and apply some contact cement to one end of the strap and lay it glue up in the T. Fold the T ends to the glued center to make the pencil holders. Bring the strap back over the glue strip with the rings included. Press together and allow to dry. The glue is to keep things together before stitching and add some stiffness to the assembly.

Once dry, sew everything together using some thick thread. You can sew it on a machine, or hand sew. Final step, stroll to the library with the look of a literary connoisseur.