Land Cruiser Oven Roof


The Land Cruiser has a huge glass moonroof that is great in the cloudy Portland winter. Well, besides leaking like a son-uva-bitch. Anyway, in the summer, that thing bakes. There’s no cover and since my farmer’s tan is bad enough, it was time to fix this problem.

I didn’t even see if Toyota ever made one because I figured it’d be more fun and cheaper to make something. Bought some 2mm plastic sheeting at Tap Plastics in the lightest opaque color possible. Tried using some windshield foil sun deflector material first, but it was just too flimsy to stay up there. Cut to size, and notched it for a little grab point. Using my beastly sewing machine, I make a channel in the middle with a slightly bent piece of the plastic. I thought that would be enough strength, but with the heat, it still sagged a bit. I had a piece of threaded rod in the shop that I wasn’t using, and just fed it into the channel and it worked great for support.

Next steps, I bought some Pendleton fabric at the Woolen Mills outlet. It took about $30 worth to cover the panel. It would’ve been nice to bind the edge, but since it was going to be tucked into the roof channel, no one would see it. I just taped it over in place and sewed through. Finally, I sewed a couple long stitches to keep the material from sagging as I didn’t want to use any glue or adhesive since it was going to back in the sun.

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Brighter Dining Wall


I’ve had the idea to change up my dining wall for a while now, but after seeing the work my friend Robert did on the Beam&Anchor storage closet, I knew how I was going to tackle it. I used 14ft. 1x10s and then a couple coats of opaque white OSMO finish.

It’s a pretty straight-forward build. I painted the wall to get rid of the black, especially had to since it came up the ceiling a bit. I still need to topcoat in white, as with lots of areas in the house that have been patched… Pretty much the whole dining and living room again, but that’ll wait.

Next step is to attach your verticals that you’ll nail all the boards onto. Make sure your wall is straight, I definitely had to shim some and take out some others due to my wavy wall. After your back verticals are secure, you’ll have plenty of area to nail into. These boards were the same thickness as my baseboard and door trim, as I wanted to completely cover the trim and just have the hallway “cut out” of the wall.

Start by nailing your horizontals, and make sure they’re level. It helps to have a friend, and thankfully Greg stopped by to give a hand that day. Make sure you press all the boards flush with each other. I have some minor gaps, but not too bad. Some of the boards really needed to be shoved into place before nailing. After nailing, countersink all your nails and add some putty to the holes. Make sure your putty will take stain or whatever you use as a finish.

I sanded the wall, mainly to smooth the putty, but also to give the boards a little more smoothness. They weren’t bad to start, but they’ll take a little less finish when sanded too. I applied OSMO in opaque white to everything with a small brush. I was really cussing here since the finish is quite drippy when applying vertically. Make sure your drop cloth is in place, areas taped off, and no young ears in the vicinity when you start dropping f-bombs.

Let the first OSMO coat dry for 24hours, then you can apply a second. It make it just a little whiter, as the first coat was already amazingly white. Let dry completely and move the furniture back!